36 Hours in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico Ondine Cohane - New York Times
go to original December 23, 2016

A folk dancer performs along the streets of Puerto Vallarta’s old town in front of the Church of Guadalupe. (Danielle Villasana/The New York Times)

Despite its reputation for numerous Señor Frogs and lowbrow all-inclusive resorts, Puerto Vallarta — and especially the older part known as Viejo Vallarta — was actually once one of the country’s most glamorous getaways, with Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton among the A-list fans.

Now the destination is drawing a new set of stylish devotees for its vibrant local community and charming architecture, as opposed to the coastal towns built in the last decades just for tourists. Because of this authentic but still party-happy vibe and the excellent beaches, Puerto Vallarta has become one of the country’s preferred getaways, both for snowbirds and for visitors looking for a long weekend escape.

But it is not just sun and sand that make “P.V.” (as it is known locally) a draw, but the new generation of shops, restaurants and galleries that have grown up in the old town’s storefronts.

A growing food scene, including hole-in-the-wall taco spots and new restaurants with up-and-coming chefs, makes it one of Mexico’s best eating cities. And with a plethora of gay bars and clubs (and a four-year-old Gay Pride event), the city has the deserved reputation for being one of the most L.G.B.T.-friendly destinations south of the border.

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