Mexico Beyond the Beaches Offers a Wealth of Cultural Treasures Elaine Griffin - Milwaukee Journal Sentinel
go to original March 18, 2012

"Arches of Merida" Mexico - 2001 (Chris Beikmann)

If you’re looking for a personal encounter with thousands of your closest American friends, you could do worse than traveling to Mexican hot spots such as Cancun or Cozumel. But you would be cheating yourself of the chance to experience Mexico itself.

You can do so safely, and with little more effort than you’d expend reaching a trendy Mexican resort. In addition to the easily accessed ruins, museums and markets in and around Mexico City itself, there’s a host of culturally and ecologically rich destinations to the south.

Here’s a few that I’ve particularly loved in visits to nine central and southern Mexican states during parts of three recent summers.

Merida, Yucatan

Just a half-day drive from Cancun, Merida is a vibrant city of nearly 1 million that is the political and cultural capital of the Mexican state of Yucatan. One of the safest cities in Mexico, it’s also an ideal home base for some great day trips.

But before venturing out of town, attention must be paid to Merida itself. History here truly runs deep: Merida’s striking pastel mansions are built on the ruins of a Maya city. Its central zocalo, or main square, recalls southern Europe - and makes for great people watching.

The Ballet Folklorico de Yucatan offers open-air evening performances at the University of Yucatan. Mexico City’s Ballet Folklorico is more elaborate, but it’s also more expensive; tickets in Merida are only $5.

It’s a steal. The vibrantly presented story that the ballet unfolds is steeped in Mexican history, reflected in dances and elaborate costumes revealing Spanish, French, Cuban, indigenous and Mexican influences. Men wave Cuban hats. Women wear elegant dresses that recall Mexico’s brief French interlude. Mayan costuming hearkens back to a more distant and mysterious past.

You can take a piece of Merida home with you by visiting La Casa de las Artesanias, a state-run shop displaying the work of regional artists, many of whom produce traditional folk art. Jewelry, clothing, spices, and soaps incorporate indigenous materials.

Just 75 miles southeast of Merida lie the spectacular ruins of Chichen Itza, a once-powerful Maya city included among the second Seven Wonders of the World. For a modest fee, English-speaking guides can explain the significance of intricate stone carvings, the purpose of the various temples and pyramids, and the rules of the game once played on the ball court.

Minutes away by car, the Cave of Balankanche offers a descent into another world - literally, for the Maya, who viewed the caves as a sacred middle ground between the earth and the spirit world.

Today’s visitors won’t see ancient religious ceremonies, but they’ll be treated to beautiful limestone formations on the walls and see the pre-Columbian artifacts that remain there. It’s a moving but physically demanding experience because of the heat and humidity inside the cave.

All that exercise sets the table for a late lunch at the nearby Hacienda Chichen Resort, a spa hotel with an outdoor terrace looking upon a lovely garden. The specialty of this region is sopa de limon, a soup made with chicken, lime, and tortilla chips. It’s delicious.

Oaxaca: Cultural mecca

A half a day’s drive from Mexico City, Oaxaca is a cultural and shopping mecca featuring artists from all over Mexico. A centrally located hotel - I recommend Hostal de la Noria - provides ready access to Oaxaca’s galleries, restaurants, and vibrant street life.

But before exercising your credit card, stretch your mind with a trip to the Museo de las Culturas, a museum with an impressive collection of pre-Columbian art displayed within a beautifully restored colonial monastery. You also can take a guided tour of the extensive surrounding gardens, home to a wide variety of native plants.

Another must-see museum is the Museo Textil de Oaxaca, which features intricate handiwork from around the world.

The museum gift shop sells some of the most beautiful craftwork I’ve seen in Mexico, from embroidered belts and bags to necklaces made of yarn. The museum supports modern artists and traditional craftspeople from the region. Fashionable textiles and home goods are also sold at Ethnico, across from the Museo de las Culturas.

You can take a break and grab a bite at the nearby Benito Juarez market, which showcases a wide variety of foods, including the fried grasshoppers that are an Oaxacan delicacy. Then polish off this tasty snack with a visit to La Soledad, a nearby chocolate shop. Oaxacans take their chocolate seriously, and La Soledad offers frequent demonstrations involving chocolate used in drinks, candy, and mole. It will also custom-make chocolate, giving chocoholics a shot at that perfect blend of flavors and ingredients they’ve always dreamed of.

Just save room for dinner.

Oaxaca is packed with restaurants; two with great food and great views of the zocalo are El Asador Vasco and La Casa de la Abuela. El Asador Vasco offers Oaxacan favorites as well as Basque specialties.

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