Time for a Little R&R in Yelapa?
Gary R. Beck - Beck's Best

August 30, 2016
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Do you desire to take a break from the towns along Bahía de Banderas? Consider a trip to Yelapa, located near the south point of the bay. A lovely upscale place to settle in as we did recently is Casa Pericos. The "A" frame three story edifice faces northwest with Nayarit glowing in the night, all the way to Punta de Mita and Islas Marietas. The bay of Yelapa is busy with tourist boats, water taxis and small fishing vessels, which provide homes and restaurants the freshest local fish and shellfish available.

Water taxi transportation may be hired at the Playa Los Muertos pier in Puerto Vallarta. The path heads directly south with short stops at several villages. Or, an orange and white bus will travel south from Basilio Badillo in SouthSide (eight pesos), with many of them ending at Boca de Tomatlan. The pier there offers a short ride south to Yelapa and for Casa Pericos mention the lodging and Playa Isabel. It is necessary to disembark into shallow water with wonderful assistance and a short walk past four casas brings you to the three-level Casa Pericos. Porter may be pre-arranged from Casa Pericos to meet you at Playa Isabel and transport your luggage to the lodging.

The floors feature extremely fine furnishings Indonesian-inspired from Bali, but also local Jaliscan wares. Casa is furnished with huge candelabras, dressers, wall hangings, mirrors, ceramic and glass pieces throughout, end tables and 'Palapa Lamps'. Moroccan-style canopy beds with mosquito nets and screens for privacy are throughout. The lodging is open to the bay so light breezes cool you off even during the hottest summer days. You are nestled in the jungle, with smooth towering rocks bolting into some rooms. The penthouse sports a Zen Soaking Tub. "Eco barefoot luxury."

There is on-site management in addition to a thick binder with information on Yelapa with nearby waterfall hikes, local places and jungle treks. Restaurants with hours and menus include Fanny's, good for traditional Mexican dishes, right on the beach, Angelina's also right on the beach and offers traditional and creative dishes. The morning-caught mahi mahi was made into the freshest ceviche possible and flavored beautifully. The crisp tostadas made for a delicious huge lunch or enough to share for two along with another appetizer as guacamole or a terrific Salsa Fresca. Pollo Bollo offers a housemade bbq with choices including chicken and pork ribs. The combo plate is more than some diners can master. Bags for take-out supply one with a great leftover dinner. Of note are the roast potatoes which accompany the meat. They are soft yet tasty and firm, marked by the drippings of the bbq cooking. Week night dinners are scaled back to weekends in the low summer season.

If on the beach for breakfast or lunch, look for dessert pies which are on nearly all must-try lists of Puerto Vallarta’s most memorable foods. Chelly makes her namesake Chelly’s Pies, has a couple assistant bakers and a relative who now sells them along the shore. Take a piece of each one to your casa: chocolate, banana, coconut, pecan and cheese.

Fanny's and Tino's offer free boat shuttle from Playa Isabel to their restaurant for lunch or dinner. Ray's is recommended for meals and Susan Pasko's Café Bahía (closed in the summer) features housemade foods including breads, granola and pies at the foot of the city pier, which is the large center one in Yelapa. Be aware that during the summer, some restaurants close while others cut back their days and hours. This is a much quieter time of the year. An added bonus is Casa Pericos has a working relationship with a captain who will greet you at Playa Isabel and motor your party to a chosen site.

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