The Busy Port City and Resort of Manzanillo Still Works Its Magic Becca Hensley - Toronto Star
go to original November 24, 2012

Manzanillo embraces two cobalt bays on Mexico’s Pacific Coast, south of Puerto Vallarta. (Dreamstime)

MANZANILLO - This is the world’s Sailfish Capital. So, it’s little wonder that the setting suggests the perfect backdrop for a fisherman’s tall tale.

Magically sited, the port city and resort embraces two cobalt bays on Mexico’s Pacific Coast, south of Puerto Vallarta. Behind, rainforest-carpeted mountains rise as fairy tale fortresses, casting lilac shadows beneath. Gem-toned houses dot the hills like multicoloured confetti. Below, volcanic beaches glimmer in the sun just as frenetically as in centuries past when arriving sailors believed the sparkling shores to be enchanted with fairy dust.

Iconic hotels like Las Hadas (which translates to fairies), a fantasy of stucco turrets, Moorish windows, arches, cobblestone trails, and posh pools contribute to the aura of the surreal. And visions of Bo Derek bouncing with braids in a bikini down La Audencia, the area’s most famous beach and the spot where 10 was filmed, simply reinforces idyllic revelations.

Sitting on the beach beneath a palapa (a palm-thatched umbrella) with a mango margarita in hand, I nibble on an overflowing plate of Pescado Zarandeado, whole fish grilled over a wood fire, rubbed with garlic and chile de arbol (a potent chili pepper) and topped with a spate of mayonnaise. My companion digs into ceviche, so replete with tentacles and meaty chunks, it might contain every creature from the sea.

We cast our snorkels aside and dig our toes into the sand, too full to return to the water. A background symphony of international voices — including laughter and whispers — melds into the syncopated intonations of the waves like a lullaby. Just before we doze, our waiter brings us one more dish: a seafood cocktail called Vuelve a la Vida, or return to life. Tempted, we gobble it and wake right up.

So pass the languorous days in Manzanillo, a getaway that still smacks of quaint Old Mexico despite the fact that it doubles as one of the nation’s busiest seaports. Evoking an ambience of earthy, casual chic, this isn’t a glitzy resort town made homogenous by tourists. It exudes artistic integrity, much of it thanks to the architectural foundation laid when renowned architect Jose Luis Ezquerria designed Las Hadas, essentially the resort’s first modern hotel. His recent contribution, the melecon — a paved promenade lined with boutiques and restaurants — follows the shore and offers an alternative to beach activities.

To stay in Manzanillo is to join Mexican tourists who prefer to vacation in more authentic seaside villages. Follow their wisdom and rediscover an affable getaway where the rich layers of Old Mexico endure.

Read more at The Toronto Star

Becca Hensley is a freelance writer based in Austin, Texas.

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