The Artistic Mix of San Miguel de Allende, Expat Haven Since the 1940s Lisa Evans - The Montreal Gazette
go to original January 5, 2013

San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, flamenco guitar music by Andrei Krylov (Andrei Krylov)

If I didn’t know better, I’d say I was in a European city. Narrow cobblestone streets lined with colonial-style houses painted deep shades of yellows and oranges with flowered iron balconies hanging above welcome me instead to San Miguel de Allende, Mexico.

A four-hour bus ride north of Mexico City, the UNESCO World Heritage Town is a blend of Mexican and European with an American accent. An expat haven since the 1940s, when Americans discovered they could use their G.I. Bill benefits to attend the town’s popular art school, Instituto Allende, San Miguel has transformed from a quiet historic relic into a modern cosmopolitan centre with a lively night scene that can compete with any North American city while still maintaining its Old World charm. At 6,200 feet, the hilly town has an agreeable climate that’s cool in the evenings and warm during the day. Just be sure to bring a comfortable pair of shoes made for uneven cobblestone roads.

Colourful streets and colonial architecture make this town an artist’s delight, and many American and Canadian artists continue to make San Miguel their home. “If you fall down in the street, you’re likely to be helped up by an artist, a musician or a writer,” said an American I befriended who owns a house here.

I start my journey in La Biblioteca Publica (the public library). Bookshelf-lined walls are decorated with colourful murals and the pristine courtyard is a great place to sit and enjoy a cup of coffee from the upstairs Café Santa Ana. Here, the Atencion newspaper can be purchased for 10 pesos (approximately 85 cents). The paper, written in English, comes out every Friday and outlines all of the town’s activities for the coming week.

La Biblioteca hosts daily lectures, concerts, movies and classes to raise money for restocking shelves with Spanish and English literature and youth programs. It also offers a Sunday tour of some of the most beautiful private homes and courtyards for 200 pesos (about $18).

Leaving La Biblioteca, I head to el jardin — the tree-shaded meeting place in the town’s centre where ex-pats and locals mix. Teenagers practise breakdance moves in the gazebo while elders sit on benches enjoying an elote — roasted corn on the cob purchased from park vendors. Time stands still at el jardin. It’s the kind of place you can spend an hour just watching people enjoy themselves.

Situated at the corner of el jardin is the gothic church La Parroquia. Dominating the skyline, it’s the pride of San Miguel and becomes my compass during my stay here. Its elaborate pink spires can be seen from almost anywhere in town.

Surrounding the park are restaurants, boutique shops and a camouflaged Starbucks. The only chain restaurant in town, its world-recognizable logo is hidden inside the courtyard entrance.

The streets of the centro are lined with galleries displaying paintings, ceramics and silver jewelry. The Mercado de Artesanias is a great place to find cheaper finds while the former textile factory Fabrica La Aurora contains a handful of artist studios where one-of-a-kind treasures can be purchased at reasonable prices.

While there are plenty of galleries in San Miguel de Allende, the folk art collection of San Francisco expats Mayer Shacter and Susan Page in nearby Atotonilco is worth a visit. Open by appointment only, Galería Atotonilco is a 20-minute drive from town and features artwork from around the country.

Also located in Atotonilco are the natural hot springs — thermal pools that are said to have anti-aging properties. The most popular are La Gruta (a dome-shaped cave) and Escondido. Taxis from San Miguel can take you there for 120 pesos (about $11) and will arrange to pick you up.

Walking back to my hotel, I pass one of many real estate offices in town. Listings are plastered on the window, their prices written in American dollars. Nearly anyone you meet here is happy to discuss the many reasons you should purchase a San Miguel home. I’ve never considered buying a house in another country, but with a realtor’s business card now tucked in my wallet, who knows?

Lisa Evans is a freelance writer who splits her time between her hometown Toronto and Chiapas, Mexico. Visit her blog where she writes about living and travelling in Mexico.

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